A cue is a tool used to strike the ball. It is crafted from high-quality wood, with a tip that is thinner at the front and thicker at the back, and its length can vary—though it generally should not be shorter than 91 cm. If the cue is too long, it becomes harder to handle, affecting both aiming and striking; therefore, selecting an appropriately sized cue is essential. The shaft is cylindrical, tapering from the thin tip to the thicker butt, and straight, measuring between 1.3 m and 1.5 m in length. The diameter of the tip (the thinner end) typically ranges from about 9 to 12 mm.

　　 Billiard cue tip The quality of the cue tip directly affects the quality of the shot. Cue tips are made of leather, which is elastic, allowing precise control over impact force and preventing slippage. To minimize slipping, rub the tip with chalk before striking the ball three or four times. Regularly trim and polish the tip to maintain its condition. Cue tips are typically crafted from hard metal or plastic, with a leather overlay adhered to the tip for protection. The cue tip—also known as the “gunhead”—is affixed to the front end of the cue and is made of leather, usually cowhide.

　　The leather tip on a billiard cue offers excellent elasticity and friction, allowing precise control over the ball’s impact and spin during play—particularly when using mid‑stroke or high‑stroke techniques. After striking the ball three or four times, to prevent slippage, apply chalk to the tip; it’s recommended to chalk before every shot, especially when applying heavy force or hitting off‑center. The cue tip should be regularly maintained and polished to keep it in optimal condition. As for the invention of the cue tip: who first devised and refined this essential component? Two prevailing accounts exist. One suggests that in the early 19th century, a French soldier stationed in India used a bald‑headed cue. After enduring rigorous punishment and prolonged practice, he noticed that the bare wood tip did not perform well. By attaching a leather covering to the tip and testing it, he found the results far superior, gradually leading to its widespread adoption.

　　Installing the cue tip: Use a blade to trim and maintain the tip, exposing the copper ferrule and the wood. Then, use a file (or sandpaper—sandpaper is recommended) to smooth the surface, ensuring that the inner bore of the ferrule and the wood lie in the same plane. Sand both the inner bore and the underside of the tip with sandpaper. Scrape an appropriate amount of strong adhesive onto the blade and apply it evenly to the bottom of the inner bore and to the tip itself. Secure the tip to the cue using a clamping jig. If the jig is unavailable, gently tap the tip with a hard object; alternatively, stand the cue upright and tap the leather tip against the floor. Grind the tip to your desired thickness and shape, then position it securely. Finally, use a blade to remove the protective end cap, revealing the ferrule and the wood. Trim with a paper cutter so that the end face of the ferrule and the wood are flush. Sand the tip’s end face and base. Apply a thin, even layer of glue to both surfaces using a blade, and use a tip‑sharpening tool to polish the tip into a smooth, rounded arc.